The Trip to Achham

On Tuesday, after meeting with the government regional stores inspector in Dhangadhi to pick up supplies of medicine, we began our journey to Bayalpata Hospital in Achham province.  The journey is 276 km (170 miles), over winding roads through the hills of western Nepal.  We made three strategic food stops chosen by our driver, which was a tour of the roadside offerings of Nepal.  Yes, we were careful to avoid meat and eat only fully cooked items.  Well, except for our first stop, where our driver introduced us to the delectable Kafal berries which grow in Nepal.  Ours were picked by two smiling women waiting on the side of the road for just such a car to go by.

Kafal berries on offer along the road to Achham

Khir being prepared over an open fire

We also stopped for Khir (a rice pudding prepared in buffalo milk) in a smoky house with a pitch-lined room and an indoor wood fire, and chow-chow (Ramen noodles fried with egg and onion).  We arrived at the hospital at 9:45 PM, a journey of almost 10 hours.

The road to Achham is a 1 1/2 lane road, where vehicles traveling in either direction ride roughly in the middle of the road and pass one another as they approach.  There is a lot of horn beeping around blind curves.  Our typical speed was 30 km/hr (19 mph), but its a nerve-wracking experience at times.

We arrived to find three folks already in the dorm, Michael, a doctor from Vermont who comes to Achham to volunteer his time twice a year for two weeks each time, SP, the hospital operations director, and Jess, the finance director, and three open beds.  We drew straws to assign beds and bunked down, so happy to have that long journey behind us!

One of the three rooms in the dorm

Thanks to my teammate Nardi Odijk for providing the photos!